This is one of the cheapest, 230V studio strobes from Godox that features a built-in radio receiver. It does what it promises.

The Godox SK300II it the smaller model in the low-budget SKII series. The stronger is the 400Ws model (I do not understand why are they so close to each other in power output). The SKII already has got an X-receiver, so any Godox 2.4GHz X flash-trigger or Master flash is able to control the SKII strobes. It could be the base of a good setup when you have Godox speedlights or a Godox Witstro system for location jobs, and a 230V studio strobe system in the studio, and all these share the flash trigger. They can be mixed or replaced with each other no matter of they are TTL or Manual ones. This is the biggest advantage of Godox’s X-system. I’ve used the very simple and manual SK300II strobe with Godox’s high-end TTL+HSS trigger and they’ve worked together.


Compared to other studio strobes the SK300II is quite small, it is made of better materials here and some worse there, but in exchange it is very lightweight. We can find an LCD screen and microswitch buttons on the back as well as a rotary knob for power-level adjustment, and two types of flash-sync sockets: a jack-type and Godox’s own USB-type one. Since this flash had built-in receiver, there is hardly any need for the USB-type sync connector, except when you use the old 433MHz Godox triggering system with the FT-16 dongle.

Tilting the strobe on a light stand is easy with its big lever. Its mechanism has ribs inside, so it can easily hold heavier modifiers.

The flash tube is O-shaped, protrudes from the housing and has a 150W tungsten modelling light in the middle with glass protection. The modelling light does not turn off during flashing but you can activate this feature by holding the MOD button.

The Godox SK300II is packed with an umbrella-reflector, and you’ll find the light bulb and the mains-cable in the package.


The strobe’s light is somewhat stable. “Somewhat” means that there may be 0,1-0,2EV fluctuations. Unfortunately this was even more severe when I uses the Godox XPro trigger, but I don’t know why. I’ve tried it with a Sony-version, maybe a Canon or Nikon version would be better. But with the Sony, there were 0,4-0,5EV fluctuations as well which is very noticeable on the shots. If this fluctuation is added to a power adjustment on the strobe, it can happen that you adjust +1/3EV on the flash and the power will be +1EV more from one shot to the next because of the addition, despite the fact that you only adjusted +1/3EV. The strobe’s power does not fluctuate all the time however, it flashes precisely 80-90% of the pops so this means 1-2 shots (out of 10) will be a bit misfired (btw it fluctuates upwards all the time so some of the shots will be brighter).

UPDATE: in the meantime I had a chance to try the strobe with the manual Godox XT16 trigger and I’ve noticed that the pops were more stable (+/- 0,1EV) with that trigger than with the XPro. 

Anyway you can adjust the flash-power on the back with a rotary knob from 1/1 to 1/16 in 0.1EV increments. Yes, you’ve read it well, the lowest power setting is only 1/16 but consider that this is only a 300Ws flash. If you use the Godox XPro for controlling, you’ll be able to adjust the power only in 1/3EV increments – maybe the above mentioned fluctuation is caused by this difference. Moreover the XPro trigger allows to go down until 1/128 but then the strobe will remain and fire on 1/16 obviously.

Color consistency

In case of color stability, this flash has performed well. The WB on lowest power is about 5500K, and 5700-5800K at 1/1 setting with a tiny magenta shift on both. This is not an IGBT flash so this is usual.

The flash duration is 1/2000s – 1/800s according to Godox, which is quite fast. These type of flashes are usually about 1/220s. Although we do not know whether these values were based on t0.1 or t0.5 metering method. I guess it’s t0.5 but then it is still a good performer.

Build quality
User experience
Next articleReview: Godox Witstro AD360II-C
Commercial and wedding photographer from Hungary


  1. Hi, thanks for the great review. I have a weird question, do you think a trigger for sony could work on a nikon camera? (I don’t need hss or ttl) I’m using nikon right now but I will switch to sony in the next months. I will buy the trigger for sony so I’m trying to find out if I could use it to control the sk300ii with my nikon camera or if my only option would be to use the strobe in slave mode until I get the sony cam.

    • I can’t tell you 100% sure (only 99% 🙂 ) but it should work. Sony triggers also have the standard center firing pin which is responsible for giving the firing signal from the camera to the trigger and then to the flash. It works simple as hell based on short circuit. You can try it for yourself, if you touch the center pin and the side pin on the hotshoe at once with a paper clip or any other steel material, then the flash will fire. I’ve just tried it with my Godox TT685 for Sony as welll as with my Godox XPro-S + AD200. Both of them has fired with a paper clip. Cameras’ hotshoes do the same thing. Just without a paper clip, haha! 😉

      • Whoa! I am sorry but that 1% chance for telling wrong just came into play: Sony hotshoe is not similar to other standard hotshoes. It is a bit thicker than Canon or Nikon so the Sony-type trigger will not fit in the Nikon hotshoe! I’ve just tried it with a Canon and a Vivitar SLR which both have standard hotshoes like Nikon…and my Godox XPro-S does not fit into them. 🙁

  2. Ho, I am not a professional photographer, but I purchased Godox sk300ii kits for Food Photography purpose that need to have continue lighting. I tried my best but I couldn’t find how to setup the both strobes to have better light on object. Would you pls advice the best setup for food photography.


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